Athens is the city where much of western civilisation germinated and grew, and where the roots of democracy, classical art and architecture and literature still lie. It is the home of quintessential Classical ruins, and the key to an understanding of the ancient and modern western world.
Preparation for the hosting of the Olympic Games in 2004 has given the modern city an elegant and efficient metro system and led not only to the refurbishment of museums, but to the excavation of a number of important archaeological sites. It is now possible to gain an understanding of the layout of the Greek city, and even the Roman one, while the Plaka district at the foot of the hill of the Acropolis preserves traces of the Byzantine and Ottoman centuries. Anyone who visited the city more than a decade ago will be pleasantly surprised by the new Athens and by the recently revealed picture of, for example, Hadrian’s Library or the Propylaea.
Visiting the Acropolis in February has a number of benefits. It is relatively uncrowded, so that your view of the Parthenon and the Erectheion is unimpeded, and you can appreciate the excellent displays of the new Acropolis Museum. The superb Parthenon frieze, illlustrating the different classes of Athens in the pageantry of Athena’s festival, is shown here in copies and original parts and enriches our understanding of Classical Athens, while sculpture from earlier temples gives a vivid idea of the long religious history of the site.
Our comfortable base is in the ever-fascinating Plaka, much of it newly restored. The pedestrian rules here and Greek street life, with tavernas of all sorts, enlivens the scene. We shall be within walking distance of most of the sites, many of which are illuminated at night, and evening strolls to see these magical views are easy.
Metro stations link the Plaka with the rest of the 19th century and modern city, so that the parts beyond walking distance can also be easily reached.
There are also two days spent away from the city, to visit the famous sanctuaries of Delphi and Sounion - both spectacularly situated.
|
