Archaeology & the Ancient World
revealed through expert eyes

Bare Bones Sicily (2008)

8 days

Itinerary
Group flights from London to Catania, and drive to our hotel in Syracuse OR meet at the airport OR at the hotel.
Drive inland from the city, to the wild and rugged hills at Pantalica, and an introduction to some of the prehistoric inhabitants of the region - the Sikels. The rocks are honeycombed with their tombs, and their enormous burial grounds covered a huge area. The grave goods include metal-work, elegant pottery, and some of the closing stones were decorated with carvings - these are displayed in the Archaeological Museum in Syracuse, to be visited tomorrow. Their settlements are more elusive, but the foundations of a structure identified as an anaktoron, or king’s house, may show where some at least of the tomb inhabitants once lived. Return to the coast at Megara Hyblea, one of the earliest Greek colonies, and a suitable introduction to this period of ancient history.
A day with the sights and sounds of Syracuse, where the relatively quiet pace of life belies the central importance it had in the ancient world. The Paolo Orsi Archaeological Museum has one of the richest and most complex collections in the world, and it has been carefully designed to lead the interested visitor on a tour of South-East Sicily from earliest prehistory right through to the end of the pagan world. The Archaeological Park contains some of the best-preserved of the monuments of the ancient city, including the Roman amphitheatre, Greek theatre and quarries.

 

After lunch drive out of the city to examine its landward defenses at Castello Eurialo. Built to control the plateau that overlooks Syracuse, now lonely and evocative with spectacular views, they are the most impressive Greek fortifications in the Mediterranean.

 

Early evening visit to Ortygia, originally an island just off the shore of Syracuse, and first home for the colonists, who joined it to the mainland with a causeway which still exists. It is now a charming part of the city, and affords good views over the Great Harbour. Its cathedral is remarkable - a Doric temple with has been transformed into a Christian basilica - the columns protrude from the walls which encapsulated them, and the cella still stands, cut through with arches to make the nave and aisles of the church.
Heloro and Palazzolo Acreide, both founded as sub-colonies by Syracuse to exert its control over the hinterland. Their histories diverged markedly after this point, and it is fascinating to compare them: Heloro is located in splendid isolation on a bluff overlooking the Mediterranean sea, and is a perfect place for a quick dip if the weather permits. Palazzolo Acreide, ancient Akrai, is to be found on a windswept prominence in the mountains west of Syracuse, and was famous for its temple of Aphrodite, built (fittingly enough) to catch the eye from miles away. The pretty urban centre of the modern town is a perfect place to sample the local delicacies, and consider the enormous variety that the territory of Syracuse presents.
Free day - many options here, either to rest and absorb the atmosphere, or to explore more of Syracuse, or to travel further afield, perhaps to one of the hill towns like Noto, famous for its Baroque architecture - you choose!
Travel to the heart of inland Sicily to investigate the mosaics of one of the most spectacular Roman imperial villas ever excavated at Piazza Armerina. Raised walkways allow you to see the floors still in situ, without damaging them, but walking from room to room as the owners and their visitors would have done - a rare treat. Morgantina was the nearby city which preceded the villa, in a lovely rural setting, with the ruins spread over two hills and the saddle between them. Excavations are still revealing more of this settlement.
Drive north, past the huge bulk of Mount Etna, and choose whether to spend the day in Taormina, a lively tourist town with shops and a fine ancient theatre - Greek and then Roman, with Etna as the dramatic backdrop to the stage wall. Alternatively continue to Messina, to take the ferry across the straits guarded by Scylla and Charybdis to Reggio di Calabria to see the wonderful and justifiably famous Riace bronze warriors, rescued from the seabed where they had lain for two millennia after being shipwrecked, and displayed in the museum.
By coach to Catania for flight home OR continue your holiday if you wish - lots more of Sicily to explore!