Prehistoric Ireland

We start the day travelling south of Dublin to view two Neolithic stone circles. Broadleas stands on a slightly elevated mound and measures over 30 meters in diameter. 27 stones remain but folklore has it that each time a person tries to count them they will come to a different number. Athgreaney circle is of a similar size with fourteen stones still remaining, and one outlier. The stones are of local granite, some rounded boulders, others more like pillars and it also has its own legend. One of the seven sites in Ireland known as the Pipers Stones, these granite boulders are said to be the remains of a piper and his dancers, petrified in stone in violation of the Sabbath. After lunch, we head to Fourknocks, where we see a fine example of a passage tomb, now preserved under a concrete dome with lighting apertures to show the unusual decoration to good effect. The remains of at least sixty individuals were found here and grave goods included stone and bone pendants and beads, as well as bone pins.

Journey to Newgrange this morning, a monumental burial mound from the Neolithic period, pre-dating Stonehenge and the Pyramids of Giza. A unique feature of the Newgrange passage is a stone box set in the roof which allows the rising sun to shine along the passage at the time of the winter solstice, and to hit the back of the rear chamber. This demonstrates not only the importance of astronomical events in the annual Neolithic calendar, but also the engineering skills of the builders. From here, we visit the UNESCO-listed site of Knowth. This large mound overlies earlier Neolithic occupation, and covers two passage graves, one with a simple undifferentiated passage, and the other with a cruciform terminal chamber. There are more than three hundred decorated stones in the main mound, the largest group of megalithic art in Europe. Common motifs are spirals and serpentine forms. Later, we visit the Hill of Tara, once the seat of the High Kings of Ireland. We wander the Iron Age hilltop enclosure and view the so-called Stone of Destiny.

Today’s highlight is our visit to Carrowmore, considered as the largest and oldest prehistoric cemetery in Ireland and one of the biggest in Europe. Most of the monuments are clustered around the great chamber of Listoghil, the only tomb to contain inhumations rather than cremations. The tombs were re-used for burial by the Bronze and Iron Age long after their initial construction. After lunch, we will explore the Carrowkeel megalithic complex. Like Carrowmore, this is a megalithic hill top passage tomb cemetery known locally as ‘the Pinnacles’. It is an atmospheric site with views stretching over Sligo Bay and the cairn topped hill of Knocknarea.

We journey to Galway situated at the mouth of the River Corrib at the head of Galway Bay. Enroute, we stop to view Drumanone dolmen and Castlestrange Stone. After lunch, we journey to Poulnabrone dolmen in the Burren, one of the most iconic archaeological monuments of the island. This is an Early Neolithic portal tomb, dating to the 4^th millennium BC. Excavations here found evidence for the burial of at least 22 individuals, radiocarbon dated to the period 3800-3200 BC. Once in Galway, we visit the Galway City Museum to see its Prehistoric collection.

On our last full day we catch a ferry across to Inis Mor, the largest of the three Arran islands. Here the island’s wild natural landscapes are accentuated by the thatched roofs of Irish stone cottages and dry stone walls which criss-cross the island. It’s also rich in archaeological sites, the most impressive of which is Dun Aengus. This spectacular fort stands on the edge of the cliff of Inishmore, its D-shaped plan comprising concentric semi-circular defensive walls and a sheer drop of more than 100 metres to the sea.

We say farewell to Galway and journey back to Dublin for our flight back to London.