Tunisia - North & South

‘Delenda est Carthago’ cried Cato the Elder to the assembled Senate of Rome – Carthage must be destroyed! And destroyed it was after a succession of wars between the two super powers of the ancient world – Carthage and Rome. Today we explore what remains of that once great Phoenician city, its scanty remains now lying scattered amongst the bougainvillea strewn villas in the wealthy suburbs of Tunis. We start at the Byrsa Hill site where Dido is said to have first founded her city; a good section of late Punic housing can be seen here and continue to the site of the Tophet where the cremated remains of thousands of children were found. Later we visit the Cothon, the Punic harbour comprised of two basins connected by a channel; one for merchant shipping; the other circular and military in nature and the impressive Antonine Baths, unique in their design and construction so close to the sea.  Finally, we the end day at the amphitheatre, once one of the largest in the Roman world,

Hotel: Hotel Dar Said

Today we travel south, stopping on our route to examine a section of the longest aqueducts built in the Roman Empire. Built between 120 and 131 AD, this extraordinary feat of engineering was undertaken at Emperor Hadrian’s behest. The aqueduct carried 32 million litres of water per day from its source at Mount Zaghouan to Carthage. A short drive takes us to Oudna and the site of ancient Uthina, a colonia established by Emperor Augustus for retired soldiers of the Third Legion. The remains of substantial public buildings (capitol, amphitheatre & roman baths) and wealthy houses with mosaics provide material evidence for this high-status settlement. We continue to Thuburbo Majus, originally a Numidian settlement in the midst of rich farming country. Like Oudna, the town became one of the colonies of veterans until it was sacked by Vandals and abandoned in Byzantine times.

Hotel: Hotel Dar Said

We journey west to Dougga stopping en route to admire the small town of Testour established in the 17^th century by Jewish and Muslim communities who came here from Andalucia to escape the Spanish Inquisition. The town is characterised by its unique blend of Spanish and local influences.  After an early lunch, we spend the afternoon at the magnificent site of Dougga, perched high on the hill above fertile olive groves. Dougga is one of the oldest towns in Tunisia. It began life as a Numidian walled citadel and was later built over by the Romans. Its native ancestry and hillside location resulted in a winding street plan, rather than a typical Roman grid.

Hotel: Hotel Thugga

This morning we visit the ancient site of Musti. Once a town of some importance, the site has been neglected and is still largely unexcavated.  However, work has started here again recently and in 2019 a Polish team discovered many hundreds of inscriptions. These have helped to shed new light on the Roman urbanization of the region. We continue north to Bulla Regia, a rare site that contains complete, superbly preserved, subterranean Roman houses. Most of the mosaics remain in situ and therefore can be viewed in their original context. In antiquity, the city acquired a notorious reputation and in the 4th century St. Augustine preached a famous sermon here, berating the citizens for their loose and immoral ways. After our visit here we start the long journey south to Kairouan.

Hotel: Hotel Kasbah

We stay local today to explore Kairouan, the fourth holiest city of Islam. Founded in 670, Kairouan became the Aghlabid capital and a centre of learning. It has never lost its ancient esteem, and it is still a place of pilgrimage. We start our day at the Aghlabid pools, reservoirs built on the outskirts of the city in the 9^th century, which at one time were considered to be a great wonder mentioned by Arab geographers for their grandeur. Afterwards we visit the Barber Mosque, burial place of one of the prophet’s companions, Abu Zama El Belaoui. He always kept with him three hairs from the Prophet’s beard; one under his tongue, one on his right arm and one next to his heart. Most of the existing buildings are of 17^th to 19^th century. Their elaborate style contrasts with the simplicity of the Great Mosque which we visit next. This building is one of the major monuments of Islam and an architectural masterpiece. Hundreds of Roman and Byzantine pillars were used in its construction, including many from Carthage. In the afternoon, we explore the Medina with its network of winding streets, shops and courtyard houses.

Hotel: Hotel Kasbah

An early departure this morning for our long drive south to Tozeur. Although most of the archaeological remains are situated in the fertile regions of the north, the Romans did not leave the south unexplored. There are records of military expeditions into the Sahara Desert and a series of fortlets, outposts and towers have been identified to form a frontier intended to control the transhumant movements and trade of desert tribes. We will visit one such structure on our journey south – the extraordinary wall at Bir Oum Ali. We will reach Tozeur around lunchtime and in the afternoon, we will take a walk through the old town. Tozeur is one of the largest date palm oases, and the chief town of the Bled El Djerid. An important staging-post on the caravan route from the Sahara to the northern Mediterranean coast, the town is famous for its mud-brick architecture, patterned in a variety of geometric designs. 

Hotel: Hotel Dar Horchani

Today is free to enjoy as you wish, either by relaxing at the hotel or exploring further afield. You may like to walk in the date palmerie, take a trip to the rock formation of Ong Jemal where Star Wars was filmed or visit the oases of Chebika and Tamerza (pre bookable, payable locally).

Hotel: Hotel Dar Horchani

Today we make our way to Douz crossing the vast salt flats known as the chotts. The largest, Chott el-Jerid, covers a surface area of 4,600 square kilometres, and stretches unbroken across almost the entire distance from the Algerian border and the Gulf of Gabes. Although a layer of superficial water can occasionally be seen during winter, for most of the year the area is relentlessly desiccated by the sun, which leaves a residual film of salt. After lunch we visit Tamezret, a traditional village of the indigenous Amazigh people, which follows a design plan in use since medieval times. Located high in the hills, the geology is not conducive to cave dwellings so houses are constructed from stone and mud brick, which gives much of the town a honey coloured glow.

Hotel: In Douz (name TBC)

During our last day on the fringes of the Sahara, we explore some of the unusual architecture of the region. We visit one of the troglodyte houses which are scattered in and around Matmata; these underground cave dwellings were created by the one of the oldest identifiable Amazigh tribes in the south and recorded by Herodotus in the 4^th century BC. The open courtyards in the centre of these troglodyte dwellings appear like craters in the landscape and the living quarters are cut around them into the rock. We will also see a ksar, a form of fortified village which is common in southern Tunisia. These are composed of domed rooms, known as ghorfas, built one on top of each other to form a thick protective wall. These cells, with their vaulted rooms, were used as granaries, safely storing the year’s cereal crops away from pests.

Hotel: In Douz (name TBC)

An early departure this morning for our return to the north. We will break our journey with a visit to El Djem where we explore the massive amphitheatre, sixth largest in the world. It had three tiers of seats, to accommodate 30,000 spectators, with further standing room. The huge structure reflects the great wealth of the region, which was founded on its extensive olive groves. It was built c 230AD, probably as a symbol of Rome’s strength, at a time when troubles were besetting the Empire. Afterwards we visit the museum which houses some of the most impressive mosaics in Tunisia and outside in the museum gardens, the foundations of some large Roman townhouses some with mosaics still in situ. 

Hotel: Hotel Kasbah

A rather more leisurely start this morning with time to relax before we continue our journey north. Today we visit Sousse, now a busy tourist destination but once was an early trading-post on the route from Tyre to the West. It was the port used by Hannibal in his campaign against Scipio at the end of the Second Punic War, and also by Caesar in 47 BC. The Museum is housed in part of the Kasbah, or high citadel, and the displays include an exceptionally fine series of mosaics from Sousse and the surrounding region. Many are arranged on the floors and walls of the patio, and in a group of rooms beyond the garden. We continue to the coast and our overnight hotel near Hammamet.

Hotel: Hotel Sindbad

Today we travel along the beautiful coastline of the Cap Bon peninsula to Kerkouane, considered to be the best-preserved Punic town in Africa. It was discovered in 1952, and extensive excavations have revealed a semi-circular layout, enclosed by a low rampart. Domestic details include houses with built-in baths, benches and water channels. Also on view is a traditional depiction of the goddess Tanit, inlaid into a red floor in small white stones. After lunch we continue to Nabeul to see its small museum before visiting the site of ancient Neapolis, a city founded by Greek immigrants in the 5^th century BC.

Hotel: Hotel Sindbad

We have come full circle and saved the best for last. This morning we visit the world famous Bardo Museum which ranks alongside the Egyptian Museum in Cairo as one of the two great museums in North Africa. The Bardo Palace, which was the official residence of the Beys until 1957, had a collection of antiquities established in its harem quarters as early as 1882. The exhibits grew in number and the museum completed a £7.5m renovation project in 2012 which doubled the floor space by adding a modern wing.  In the afternoon, we will take a walk through the narrow streets of the 9^th century medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site before returning to our hotel in Hammamet for some free time.

Hotel: Hotel Sindbad

Our tour comes to an end and we return to the airport for our flight to London.