The Romans in Istria – Exploring Idyllic Croatia

With its staggeringly beautiful coastline, the idyllic peninsula of Istria boasts a rich history linking it to the Veneti and is, today famed for its wonderful ancient ruins, as well as its beautiful, Venetian cities. Little is known about the ancient Histri who gave the peninsula its name, save for the fact that it took Rome some time to conquer it in the 2nd century BC because of its tenacious citizens. When incorporated into the Roman Empire, it was ruled alongside Venetia, an association which foreshadowed Venetian dominance, beginning in the 9th century when the maritime republic started its inexorable conquest of the Illyrian coast.

It was only during the Napoleonic era that Istria slipped from Venetian control when it came under the dominion of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. History has, inevitably, shaped Istria, starting with the splendid Roman ruins found in its cities, notably Pula, which has some of the finest ruins anywhere outside of Italy, including a superb Temple of Augustus and a famous amphitheatre. Trieste, the busy port city of the Austro-Hungarians, owes much of its elegance to the central European influence imbued in the period of Habsburg domination, although it also contains a fine Roman temple. In turn, although it is home to Roman remains, Poreč is notable for its extraordinary 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica, an early Byzantine church which is scintillating with its shimmering gold mosaics. Thus, any visit to this lovely region offers a wonderful immersion into a range of bygone periods, not simply just the Roman times.

Join Andante on tour to discover the Archaeology of Roman Istria and explore idyllic Croatia in the company of an expert Guide Lecturer.

Pula

The wonderful remains of Pula, a historic gem on the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula, offers precious testimony to the Roman presence and influence in this region. Most prominent among these is the stunning amphitheatre, featuring the underground service rooms, as well as the four outer towers, which contained water for the sparsiones sprinkled on the spectators during performances, plus evidence of the structures necessary for the awnings used to shade the spectators. Another treasure is the Roman Forum, home to the Temple of Augustus, one of the best preserved Roman temples outside of the Italian peninsula. Dating from the same period is the Arch of the Sergii, which was both a city gate as well as a commemoration of the victory at Actium, while nearby is the Gate of Hercules, recognisable from the high relief sculpture of the hero’s bearded head, together with his club. The well-preserved Roman theatre is astounding too, built into the hillside on which the castle now sits and, along with the other ruins here, instantly transports visitors to an ancient Italianate world.

Vizula

Delve deeper into imperial Rome at Vizula Archaeological Park, a stunning peninsula hiding a wealth of remains, with evidence showing habitation here from the Neolithic period onwards. Just one of the striking and significant sites is the Imperial Villa, whose grandeur underlines the prosperity of some of Vizula’s inhabitants. With its impressive size, rich decorations, stunning mosaics and gleaming marble, it is no wonder that this is one of the most luxurious and attractive villas found on the Adriatic coast that stems from the Roman Empire. One of the elite resorts of its day, the villa boasts spectacular views over the Gulf of Medulin and took three decades to excavate, leading to valuable insight into those who were once drawn here.

Poreč

The lovely town of Poreč is situated on the western side of the pretty Istrian peninsula. Inhabited since prehistoric times, it was a Roman castrum in the second century BC, making use of the natural harbour, and became a municipium during the time of Augustus. The Roman Forum can be found at Marafor Square, where remains of some of the Roman temples are still visible, as well as paving from the forum itself. Nearby is the pediment of the Temple of Neptune, once the largest in Istria and dedicated to the Roman god of the sea. Perhaps the most notable site in Poreč is the Euphrasian Basilica, housed in a complex that includes a baptistery and bell tower and a landmark that cemented Poreč as an ecclesiastical centre. This UNESCO-listed building is a particularly fine example of Byzantine architecture, built in the 6th century on top of an older, 4th-century basilica, as well as a Roman domus, a townhouse occupied by the wealthy. Inside, the eye is caught by the staggering mosaics in this complex, while the oratory retains a mosaic floor that belonged to the domus.

Trieste

Located in Northeastern Italy on the border with Slovenia, the beautiful city of Trieste is richly intertwined with Roman culture and influence, strongly contributing to its economic development centuries ago. Originally founded as a Roman colony in the 1st century BC, Trieste (then known as Tergeste), served as a significant hub for trade and military operations, thanks to its strategic position on the Adriatic Sea. The city’s elegant avenues are dotted with a whole host of archaeological treasures to explore, such as the Cattedrale di San Giusto, built between the 9th and 10th centuries on top of an early Christian church and a Roman temple, notable for its Venetian apsidal mosaics. Just outside the cathedral lies the remains of the Roman Forum. Once the bustling heart of the city, it’s fascinating to simply walk in the footsteps of politicians, traders, merchants and citizens, gaining an insight into daily Roman life along the way. There is plenty more to see too, including the Arco di Riccardo, one of the ancient city gates which monumentalised the entrance to the Cardo, and the well-preserved Roman theatre, dating back to the 1st century BC. Still occasionally used for al fresco shows in the summer, it is yet another symbol of the Roman’s enduring legacy and continued presence within the modern world.